07 June 2012

Nega zanoktica

Prvo sam htela da napravim jedan post pod nazivom "Alat, oblikovanje, nega i održavanje", ali imam toliko materijala da ću morati ipak da podelim pisanije po sekcijama. U ovoj poruci ću se pozabaviti negom i uklanjanjem zanoktica. Najbolje savete i uputstva i o jednom i o drugom ima Ana (Loodieloodieloodie).

At first I wanted to write a long post on nail care, but there is so much to write about that I'll have to split it into several sections. In this post I'll deal with the cuticle care and removal. The best advice and instructions for both has Ana (Loodieloodieloodie).

Trind Cuticle Remover - Golden Rose Nail Care Cutipeel - Aura Tretman zanoktica

Moje zanoktice su uvek bile u veoma lošem stanju - kako kožica koja okružuje nokat i koju ne bi trebalo dirati, tako i kožica koja se spušta preko nokta i koju redovno uklanjam. Za uklanjanje zanoktica već godinama koristim Trind Cuticle Remover, a tek sam nedavno počela da zaista negujem zanoktice i za to koristim Šenemil ulje i Golden Rose Regenerating & Hydrating Oil. Najveći je problem što ne mogu da nađem baš dobru kremu za ruke koju bih redovno koristila. Većina krema po parfimerijama sadrži glicerin, a on meni ostavlja lepljiv film na koži. Zato sam se vratila Hemelu i njihovoj Kremi za pete. Ona jeste masna, ali mi veoma odgovara.

My cuticles have always been in terrible state - both true cuticle and eponychium. I've been using Trind Cuticle Remover for years, and I've only recently started to really take care of my cuticles. I'm using Šenemil nail and cuticle oil and Golden Rose Regenerating & Hydrating Oil. My biggest problem is that I can't seem to find a hand cream that would suit me and that I'd use regularly. Most hand creams available in drugstores contain glycerin, and it leaves sticky film on my skin. That is why I returned to Hemel heel balm. It is very greasy, but agrees with my skin.

pokidana zanoktica

Glavni uzrok pucanja zanoktica je suvoća kože. Zato ruke uvek treba posle pranja dobro osušiti i često mazati. Svi govore o korišćenju rukavica prilikom pranja sudova. Ja to ne radim i možda su mi zbog toga zanoktice takve kakve jesu. Zimi je neophodno zaštititi ruke od vetra i hladnoće. Bilo koje ulje, mast ili krema neguju zanoktice. Ja prednost dajem masnijim proizvodima više nego vlažnijim. Imam utisak da oni deluju bolje na moju kožu, ali moguće je da je to samo varka i da i jedni i drugi deluju podjednako dobro. Znam da se mnogi ljudi kunu u maslinovo ulje, ali istina je da bilo koje ulje, bilo koja krema imaju povoljno dejstvo na zanoktice, samo ih treba koristiti stalno.

The main reason for getting hangnails is dry skin. That's why hands should be well dried and moisturised after washing. Everyone is talking about using gloves when washing dishes. I don't do it and that may be why my cuticles are the way they are. In winter, hands should be protected from wind and cold. Any sort of oil, ointment or cream will benefit the cuticles. I prefer greasier, thicker products. I have a feeling that they have better effect on my skin, but it is possible that it is only a false impression and that both greasy and moist products have equally good effect. I know many people swear by olive oil, but the truth is that any sort of oil, any cream will have beneficial effect on cuticles as long as it is used regularly.

Zanoktice se mogu uklanjati dvojako - hemijski i mehanički (mada i hemijsko uklanjanje zanoktica ima i mehanički element). Pod mehaničkim uklanjanjem zanoktica podrazumevam sečenje. Mnogi kažu da zanoktice ne treba seći jer to ostavlja koren nokta izložen bakterijama. Loodie Loodie Loodie kaže da ne treba seći kožicu oko nokta sem kada se zacepi, ali da onu na noktu, koja je sačinjena od izumrle kože, možemo i treba da uklanjamo. Važno je paziti kako se seče zacepljena zanoktica, da su makaze ili sečice čiste i sterilne i da se ne seče više nego što je neophodno.

Cuticles can be removed in two ways - chemically and mechanically. Under mechanical removal I consider cutting. Many say that cuticles shouldn't be cut because it leaves the base of the nail unprotected and open for infections. Loodie Loodie Loodie says that cuticles (actually eponychium) shouldn't be cut, but that the hangnails and skin over nails (true cuticle) can and should be removed. It is very important to take care when cutting hangnails, the nippers or scissors should be clean and sterile and you should not cut more than necessary.

Trind Cuticle Remover - Golden Rose Nail Care Cutipeel - Aura Tretman zanoktica

Hemijska sredstva za uklanjanje zanoktica sadrže ili kalijum hidroksid (KOH, potassium hydroxide) ili alfa hidroksilnu kiselinu (AHA). Ova dva sastojka nagrizaju kožu i tako odstranjuju izumrle ćelije. Veoma je važno pratiti uputstvo i ne držati sredstvo duže od onog što piše u uputstvu. Ja volim da potopim prste na nekoliko minuta u mlaku vodu kako bih omekšala zanoktice pre nego što pristupim uklanjanju zanoktica, ali to nije neophodno. Posle primene hemijskog sredstva za uklanjanje zanoktica, kožicu treba potisnuti ili oguliti štapićem za manikir ili štapićem za čišćenje ušiju, zatim ruke treba dobro oprati, osušiti i namazati kremom ili nekim sredstvom za negu zanoktica.

Chemical cuticle removers contain either potassium hydroxide (KOH) or alpha-hydroxy-acid (AHA). These two ingredients corrode skin, thus removing dead cells. It is important to follow instructions and not to keep it on skin longer than specified. I like to dip my nails in lukewarm water for several minutes just to soften my cuticles before I apply cuticle remover, but that is not necessary. After applying cuticle remover, the dead skin should be scraped with cuticle pusher or q-tip, and hands should be well washed and moisturized afterwards.

Ja posedujem tri sredstva za uklanjanje zanoktica - Trind Cuticle Remover, Golden Rose Cutipeel i Aura Tretman zanoktica. Sva tri proizvoda su u pakovanju kao od laka za nokte i nanose se četkicom. Link u nazivu proizvoda vodi do spiska sastojaka i uloge svakog sastojka u tom proizvodu.

I own three cuticle removers - Trind Cuticle Remover, Golden Rose Cutipeel i Aura Cuticle treatment. All three products come in nail polish-like packaging - in nail polish bottle and with brush. The link in product's name will take you to the ingredients list.

Trind Cuticle Remover

Trind Cuticle Remover je sredstvo koje koristim godinama. Sadrži kalijum hidroksid i zaista omekšava izumrli sloj zanoktica i olakšava njihovo uklanjanje. Na pakovanju piše da ga treba držati 5-10 minuta, ali moje je iskustvo takvo da su i dva minuta dovoljna. Treba ga bogato naneti na zanoktice jer se brzo suši. Pakovanje je od 11 ml. Više se ne može nabaviti kod nas, ali se može naručiti preko interneta.

Trind Cuticle Remover is product I've been using for years. It contains KOH and it truly softens and removes cuticles. The instructions say that it should be held 5-10 minutes, but my experience has shown that 2 minutes will suffice. It should be applied in generous ammount because it dries fast. It comes in 11 ml bottle. It is unavailable in Serbia, but can be found online. It is a bit mere expensive, but worth every penny.

Aura Tretman zanoktica

Aura Tretman zanoktica sam nabavila tek nedavno i koristila sam ga samo jednom. Nisam bila impresionirana rezultatom i moguće je da je krivac za to bio glicerin. On baš ne odgovara mojoj koži. Proizvod je bio bolji od Cutipeela, ali ni prineti Trindu. Sadrži KOH. Na pakovanju piše da ga treba utrljati u zanoktice i pustiti ga da deluje 10 minuta. Proizvod miriše na alge. Meni to nije najprijatniji miris, ali nije toliko jak da bih previše pažnje obratila na njega. Pakovanje je od 11,5 ml i košta oko 300 dinara. Može se nabaviti u svakoj Lilly drogeriji.

I bought Aura Cuticle treatment only recently and I've used it only once. I wasn't impressed with the result and the reason for that might be glycerine. It doesn't agree with my skin. This product was better than Cutipeel, but nowhere near Trind Cuticle Remover. It contains KOH. Instructions say that it should be massaged into cuticle and let to sit for 10 minutes. It smells like algae. I don't find it to be the most pleasant smell, but it isn't that strong that I'd mind. It comes in 11,5 ml bottle and costs about 3 €. It is available in Lilly drugstores.

Golden Rose Nail Care Cutipeel

Golden Rose Nail Care Cutipeel ne sadrži ni KOH ni AHA, ali sadrži alantoin koji se koristi kao eksfolijant. U uputstvu piše da ga treba držati minut-dva i da potom treba potisnuti zanoktice štapićem. Ja nisam videla rezultate u vidu manje izumrle kože ili uklonjenih zanoktica, ali sastav Cutipeela ukazuje na to da ovo može biti dobro sredstvo za negu zanoktica jer sadrži više ovlaživača, bademovo ulje i sredstvo za UV zaštitu. Miris mu je veoma prijatan, sladak. Pakovanje je od 12 ml i košta oko 200 dinara.

Golden Rose Nail Care Cutipeel doesn't contain KOH or AHA, but it contains allantoin, an exfoliant. The instructions say that it should be let sit for 1-2 minutes and that the cuticles should be pushed back afterwards. I haven't noticed less dead skin, but Cutipeel's ingredients list suggests that this could be great cuticle care product because it contains several moisturizers, almond oil and UV block. It has very pleasant, sweet smell. It comes in 12 ml bottle and costs about 2 €.

dve vrste štapića za potiskivanje zanoktica

Uz hemijsko sredstvo se koriste i štapići kojima se omekšana koža mehanički odstranjuje. Ti štapići mogu biti posebni štapići za uklanjanje zanoktica, može se koristiti metalni potiskivač zanoktica, ali i običan štapić za uši. Štapića za zanoktice ima raznih - drvenih za jednokratnu upotrebu (u salonima su takvi obavezno za jednokratnu upotrebu iz higijenskih razloga, u kućnoj režiji meni maksimalno traju pet upotreba), plastičnih, gumenih. Ima ih i u više oblika - zakošenih ivica, ravnih ivica i "kopitastih". Neki imaju na oba kraja isti oblik, a neki različit - česta je kombinacija "kopita" i čačkalice. Pakovanje od 10 takvih drvenih štapića u Unitech-u košta 50 dinara, u Kariki 1 komad košta 7 dinara.

Chemical removers are used alongside cuticle pushers that mechanically remove softened dead skin. Cuticle pushers can be made out of metal, plastic or wood and even q-tips can be used as cuticle pushers. They also come in several shapes - hoof-shaped, angled-edged or flat-edged. Some have both ends same, others are combining two different shapes. Combination of hoof and needle-like point are quite usual.


2 comments:

  1. Nisi napisala koliko često uklanjaš kožicu?
    Ja imam Afrodita Cuticle Remover, i piše da se treba korsititi jednom u 10 dana ali mi to djeluje previše jer puno isuši kožicu.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ja to s mene pa na uštap. Mada kako mi je sada ovaj skidač laka uništio zanoktice moraću jednom nedeljno. Mislim da je to za mene dovoljno često, ali en prečesto, jer imam dosta problema sa pucanjem zanoktica. Važno je posle dobro isprati tu hemikaliju i redovno mazati zanoktice. Meni su se već malo oporavile za ovih nekoliko dana zahvaljujući uljima.

      Delete

Hvala vam što ste izdvojili vreme da pogledate moje slike, pročitate članak i što želite da podelite sa mnom i drugima svoje mišljenje. Molim vas da mi ne ostavljate linkove ka svojim blogovima, sajtovima, slikama kučića i mačića i ostalim lepotama. Sama ću kliknuti na vaš profil ako mi ostavite smislen ili zanimljiv komentar, a komentare sa linkovima tretiram kao spam.

Thank you for taking time to look at my photos, read the article and share your opinion on the subject. Plese, don't link to your websites, blogs, puppy and kitty pictures and other stuff in comments. I'll check out your profile on my own as long as you leave a sensible or interesting comment and I'll treat comments with links as spam.

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